Growing With Food

By Siddharth Janarthanan

I know, it’s not a unique or minority life experience, as we literally can’t grow without food. And no, I’m not referring to my expanding waistline either. I am talking about growing up to be more refined, broad-tongued (I think I just made that up), creative, and kind through the lens of an obsessive foodie. Don’t worry, that’s not a reference to eating disorders, my friends just happen to view me first and foremost as a foodie.  

I grew up in Chennai and came to Singapore when I was seventeen. I have a visceral connection with south Indian food, and it has been an enduring relationship, one which I believe will last my lifetime. While I do flirt with other cuisines from near and far, briefly or for long, I always find my way home to Dravidian flavours. I have never understood or embraced patriotism or nationalism, or identified exclusively with individual academic subjects, languages, genders, races, cities, and icons. So I find my attachment to Tamil food somewhat perplexing and also amusing (as long as I have easy access to it, of course. I will cry if I haven’t eaten tamarind rice or curd rice for a fortnight). 

Yet, being in Singapore for more than eleven years, and the occasional travelling, have certainly had an impact on my taste buds. I have grown to love elements of Thai, Chinese, Taiwanese, Japanese and Malay cuisines, in addition to European ones. I have to thank my friends who made me try all these other flavours and I will forever be grateful to them. How lucky to live in Singapore with great friends who make you explore such varied tastes and textures! There have been days when I ate a Full English Breakfast, a south Indian thali for lunch, and white carrot cake or dumplings and fried rice for dinner. Thanks to my friends from other parts of India, I have also grown to love Bengali, Mangalorean and Marathi food, here in Singapore! I am no longer a part of the Biryani wars and I happily devour quite a few styles of it. Look at me, oh so open-mouthed (or open-stomached? I know, I have a problem with this whole creating words and phrases thing).

Interestingly, but perhaps not surprisingly for many, enjoying other cuisines has changed the way I consumed Indian food as well. I used to prefer hot and spicy dishes and could not tolerate even a hint of sweetness in a dish which is not a dessert. Now, I prefer less heat (chili), salt and even enjoy a bit of sweetness in several main course items. Being able to enjoy a wider range of flavours and textures, and being introduced to OPOS (google it), I am in the process of becoming more creative in my cooking as well. In principle and somewhat in practice, I am now less obsessed with glorifying “authentic” and “traditional” methods and flavours. And what about kindness? Well, I used to be one of those people who would judge someone for eating a dosai or chapati with a spoon and fork, or pouring curd over idlis, or mixing rasam with curd rice, or eating appalam with payasam, or – okay, you get the point. But not anymore! At least, not half as much (many apologies to semi-judging Ms. Thomas for eating plain curd rice). 

During my trip to Greece, I couldn’t help myself but order a plate of samosas once and even though my friends rolled their eyes (it’s all good, they are worth it), I realized food is a source of comfort for many of us. And as long as we don’t force others to try and like certain dishes or get forced to do so, we should celebrate the differences and maybe even give other flavours a try! So here’s to many more years of exploring and enjoying food from across the globe with good company!

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